Topkapi Palace
Admissions
Topkapi Palace Museum is open between 9:00 am-5:00 pm everyday except for Tuesdays. Tickets are purchased in the gateway to the Second Court. The tickets cost 20 TL.(equivalent to 13 USD or 9,5 EUR) per person in 2012 season.
The Harem Section can be visited with a separate ticket in the ticket office near the Harem entrance. The tickets cost 15 TL(10 USD or 7 EUR).
History
When Sultan Mehmed II captured Constantinople in 1453, he found the palaces of the Byzantine Emperors in such ruins as to be uninhabitable. He chose a large area on the broad peak of the Third Hill as the site of his first imperial residence. He constructed a great complex of buildings and gardens here and they came to be known as "Eski Saray" which means "The Old Palace". A few years later, he decided to have his palace on the N side of the First Hill which had been the acropolis of the ancient Byzantium. He constructed a massive wall surrounding the area along the Sea of Marmara to the Golden Horn. This took place during the period 1459-65 after the Sultan left the former palace to women of his father's harem. The Harem in Topkapi Palace in its present state dates back to the reign of Murat III(1574-95), Mehmed IV(1648-87) and Osman III(1754-57).
Topkapi Palace was more than just the private residence of the Sultan and his court. It was the seat of the supreme executive and judiciary council, the Divan and the training school, the Palace School. In the First Courtyard, there were a hospital, bakery,arsenal, a state mint, a part of the treasury and the Outer Service. It was open to public. The Second Courtyard was open to people who had business with the council. The Third Courtyard was reserved to the Sultan's household and palace children. The Fourth Courtyard was exclusively reserved for the Sultan's use.
Topkapi Palace continued to be the principal residence for four centuries until in 1853, Sultan Abdul Mecid I moved into the new palace of Dolmabahce on the Bosphorus. The old palace was used as house for the women of the departed sultans and their servants until the Harem was officially disbanded in 1909. In 1924, Topkapi Palace was converted to a museum with the order of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk. The final step was the opening of the Harem to the public in 1960.
The First Courtyard
The main entrance to the palace is through Bab-ı Humayun, the Imperial Gate. The monumental gateway was erected by Mehmed "the Conquerer" in 1478. The rooms in the gateway housed the guards who were watching the palace at all times in day and night. The imperial monogram (Tugra) is the one of Mehmed II, and the other calligraphic insciptions go back to the reconstruction of the gateway by Abdul Aziz in 1867.
The Imperial Gate leads to the First Court of the palace which is sometimes known as "the Courtyard of the Janissaries". The Janissaries were the paid soldiers of the sultan who were staying in the First Court when on duty. During the decline of the Ottoman Empire in the 17-18th century, they lost their effectiveness as a military force and caused a lot of violence. The Janissarry Corps was finally abandoned by Mahmud II in 1826 who was a reformist sultan.
The First Courtyard is not considered as the palace proper, it is just the entrance to the palace. There were the palace bakeries and the grounds of the Great Palace of Byzantium on the right side. To the left of the entryway, there is a small Byzantine Church of Hagia Irene and far more to the right is the state mint (darphane) and the Outer Treasury. Just to the north of those buildings, a road leads down to Gulhane Park and the Archeological Museums.
Hagia Eirene Church
Hagia Eirene, the church of Divine Peace was first constructed by Constantine the Great but it was destroyed by a fire during the Nika Revolt in 537. Emperor Justinian immediately rebuilt Hagia Eirene because together with Hagia Sophia, these two churches formed two essential religious establishments. This church is the first Byzantian Church in Istanbul and it was never converted to a mosque during the Ottoman Era.
Entering the church, one descends along a stone ramp to the level of the interior. At the end of the ramp, there is the rear of the church which gives the idea of a basilica, but an unusual type. The eastern dome is supported by four great arches. In this church, the plan is the transition of a pure domed basilica into a Greek-cross plan church. The apse is a semicircular semidomed above and there are seats for the clergy. In the semidome, there is an ancient mosaic of a simple cross in a black border.
At the west, a Turkish wooden staircase leads to the galleries. The galleries and the church was used as an arsenal during the Ottoman Era. Today, Hagia Eirene hosts Istanbul Art,Cultural and Music Festivals and Istanbul Biennials. It is open to public only in festival, concert and biennale times.
The church is currently closed to public.
The Second Courtyard
At the far end of the First Courtyard is "Bab-us Selam", the Gate of Salutations, better known as the "Orta Kapi", Middle Gate. This was the entrance to the Inner Palace and the passage was only on foot for authorized people. The gateway is a typical military architecture of the Conqueror Mehmed II's time, twin octagonal towers capped with conical roofs. Above the outer gate is the tugra, the imperial monogram of Suleiman the Magnificient and a calligraphic inscription reading "There is no God but God and Mohammed is his prophet". The chambers on the towers hosted the gatekeepers and one of them was for the visitors and ambassadors. The visitors were first taken to the room, served refreshments and then accepted by the Grand Vezir or Sultan. There was another small room for prisoners awaiting execution.
In the Second Courtyard, there are five paths radiating to different chambers of the palace. The second path from the left leads to Divan, the advisory, judiciary and administrative council of the Sultan.
The Divan
From the Middle Gate, there are five different paths radiating to various parts of the courtyard which the second from the left leads to the Divan(administrative,advisory and judiciary council of the Sultan). This building is dominated with a square tower with a conical roof. This complex dates back to the time of Conqueror Mehmed II but it was altered in different periods. The Court of the Divan was designed to conduct public administrative and judiciary matters of the Empire and it gathered together four times a week. On such occasions, the whole courtyard was filled with magnificiently dressed officials and the corps of the palace guards and Janissaires, at least 5000 people people on ordinary days. On celebration days, it was twice as much this number.
The Divan complex consists of the Council Chamber(the first room from the left), the Public Records Office and the Office of the Grand Vezir(Prime Minister). The lower walls of these building are revetted in Iznik Tiles of the best period and the upper walls are as well as the vaults are original arabesque painting. The carpets are original Hereke carpets which are exclusively woven by the Palace. The Grand Vezir sat in the middle and over his seat, there is a grilled window looking into a small room in the tower. This was called as "The Eye of The Sultan" because of his hiding place. From here, the door led to the Grand Vezir's Office though the present entrance is from under the elaborate rate portico with its richly painted rococo ceiling. The Records Office which has retained its 18th C. decor, served as an archive for Divan Records and for documents that might be needed at Council Meetings. On the walls, there are miniatures depicting the council meetings.
The second path from the right leads to Palace Kitchens, which used to serve as Chinese and Japanese Porcelain Collection. The enormously big chimneys give the idea about the population of the palace in the former times. On the opposite of the Porcelain Collection, the 18th-19th C. beautiful European and Ottoman Glass - Silverware Collection could be seen. On the left of Porcelain Collection, there are two different sections of Kitchen Utensils and Ottoman Vases - Porcelain Collection. In the latter, the coffee cups which the Ottoman Sultans are depicted on are worth seeing. This section is currently closed (as of 2011)
The Harem
The Harem is located on the second courtyard of Topkapi Palace Museum. Upon entry, the second path from the left leads to Harem Buildings Complex. The admission requires a separate ticket which is available in the ticket office nearby the Harem entrance. A ticket costs 15 TL.
The word "Harem" literally comes from the Arabic word "Haram" which means "Forbidden". It was Sultan's own residence and no one else was allowed to go in. The Sultan had four official wives and many other women called "Favorites" or "Concubines". The "Favorites" were younger, newly accepted women to the Harem and they were chosen by the Queen Mother(Sultan's mother). They were charged with doing the housework and serving to the older women and the Queen Mother. The older women were called as "Concubines". The Queen Mother could choose a favorite as a candidate of being an official wife if she is beautiful, nice, quiet and healthy to produce healthy children. Any favorite coming from another country was converted to Islam and embraced Islamic principles. The famous Roxelana, the beloved wife of Suleiman "the Magnificient" originally came from Ukraine as a favorite and by stealing the heart of Suleiman, she became a Queen Mother. She took a Turkish name as "Hurrem"(cheerful) and had a big influence over Sultan Suleiman. The Harem is full of such stories...
The Harem is comprised of labyrinthine passages, courtyards, gardens, staircases and more than 300 rooms which are surprisingly small. It included not only the chambers for the women, but also quarters for the Black Eunuchs who were in charge of guarding the women. The Eunuchs were chosen among the African Black people because if in case a woman has an affair with any of them, they could see the baby's skin color. They were also very strong and well built people.
As you enter to Harem, first courtyard is the "Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs". This courtyard is covered with splendid blue, white and green ceramic tiles which date back to 1668. At the far end of this courtyard is called "Cumle Kapi" the Main Gate to Harem proper. To the left is a long and narrow corridor stretches to the open "Courtyard of the Cariyeler(concubines)". Just beyond the Cumle Kapi, a gateway opens to a wide corridor which extend into Harem proper, this is called as "Golden Road". At the beginning of the corridor, an opening on the left leads to the large open "Courtyard of Queen Mother(Valide Sultan). She reigned over the Harem and her son, Sultan. To the right from this courtyard leads to the "Baths of the Harem" with a Turkish-style toilet.
Another great room to be seen during the visit to Harem is "Hunkar Sofasi", the Hall of the Sultan. It is the largest and grandest room in the palace. There's a throne which the Sultan sat and a balcony for the musicians. The little room on the right was for the musical instruments. The Sultan had entertainment here with all the women. Most of the women in the Harem knew to play at least one musical instrument, mostly a Turkish instrument called "Ud".
One of the most delightful rooms in the Harem is the "Library of Ahmet III" which was constructed in 1705-1706. Its walls are panels od lacquered wood decorated with paintings of coloured flowers and fruits.
Tne princes also had their rooms in the Harem. There were foreign teachers, especially in 1740s, French, teaching languages and all necessary things for a prince. The four official wives' apartments were the largest ones and were close to the Princes' Apartments.
Tne tour to the Harem ends with a big courtyard which overlooks a vast swiming pool. This swimming pool was for the women to swim on warm and sunny days. There are stairs above the courtyard for the women to go near the pool. The women were not allowed to go outside the Harem and needed to have fresh air. The chambers above this courtyard was reserved for some favourites and four official wives. One cannot believe that the courtyard and swimming pool were full of pretty and charming ladies having fun and getting more pretty for their beloved Sultan....
The Third Courtyard
Leaving the kitchen exhibits, one approaches the "Bab-us saadet", The Gate of Felicity. This is the entryway to the Third Courtyard and this area was strictly reserved for the use of high ranking officials and palace children. The gateway was originally built by the time of the Conquerer and restorated in the late 16th C and redecorated in rococo style. In the holidays, the Sultan sat in front of the gate on his gold and emerald throne subjects and officials. There is a little stone with a hole in the middle, it is the "Sacred Standard" in which the flag of Ottoman Empire was centered. After the conquests, the flag was brought here and put in its place with ceremonies.
Just beyond the threshold of the Gate of Felicity stands the "Arz Odasi","The Audience Hall of the Sultan". In this room, the Sultan received the reports of the Council Meetings presented by the Grand Vezir(Prime Minister) and high officials to make the final decisions. The Sultan received the foreign ambassadors in this room. Lord Byron or many French Ambassadors were accepted in this room. The tiles on the two sides of the door of the room are 16th C splendid Iznik Tiles. The Sultan sat on his golden and emerald decorated throne whereas all the visitors sat on the floor (now displayed in Treasury Section). The room was decorated with precious stones. The little fountain on the right of the door was for making noise during the meetings so that nobody could have heard what the subject of the meeting was.
The Third Courtyard included the Palace School, The Imperial Costumes, the Treasury and the Holy Relics section. At the palace school, the most talented boys were taken and given a very good training for being a good governors and bureaucrats of the future.
The Treasury
The third courtyard's most beautiful section is the Treasury. It consists of four different halls which are located on the eastern corner of the Third Courtyard. These rooms were used as a suite of reception rooms by some of the sultans.
Hall 1: The most notable exhibit here is an ebony throne inlaid with ivory and mother-of pearl, made for Murat IV. The other pieces are nargilahs (water pipe) with cut-crystal bases and mouthpieces set with diamonds; little coffee cup holders, including one set with rose-coloured diamonds and enamelled gold-pen box decorated with gems. Various Holy Koran holders are also worth seeing. There is also an armour of Sultan Mustafa III, which is quite impressive. It is made of iron and decorated with gems. It is a protection from top to toe.
Hall 2: This room is known as "Emerald and Emerald Objects Section".Upon entrance, there is a hanging pendant belonging to Sultan Abdulhamit I of emerald and golden framed. This is one of the most striking pieces in the exhibits. In the same case is a six-sided pendant of emerald belonging to Sultan Ahmet I. The body sits on a six pearl foot, with each of its six sides framed in gold. The cover is domed in a gold lattice, encrusted with diamonds and sapphires. The old plaque at the base indicates that it was commissioned by Sultan Ahmet I. in the year 1617 at a price of 6000 gold pieces. In the lower corner of this case, on a turban, is a 17th century plume-decorated with two five centimeter emeralds in length, formed on a heavy gold pin. Its top is decorated with two five centimeter emeralds and a garnet stone, framed by diamond-encrusted gold leaves, and loops of pearl chains. An additional pendant in this same case was commissioned by Sultan Ahmed I.
In the third case, at the top, is an emerald pendant belonging to Sultan Mustafa, and an emerald dagger belonging to Mehmet IV. This dagger is a fine example of 17th century craftsmanship, 31 centimeters in length, its handle of solid emerald, worked in gold an other precious gems. It was a present to the Sultan Mehmet IV. at the dedication of the Yeni Mosque.
Hall 3: In this hall, more diamond and gold works are displayed. In the case on the right of the entrance are Koran covers decorated in precious stones. in the second case is a dessert set belonging to the Sultan Abdulhamit, as well as a gold incense burner, and an enameled sherbet set.
At the top of the third case is a pendant carrying the seal of the sultan Mahmut II.,of diamonds, on a blue and pink enamel background. The chain is made of gold, and the tassel 45 strings of 38 centimeters of pearls. In the same case is a grouping of several very large, very famous cut diamonds. The broaches, rings ad other jewelry items here are equally lovely. In the fourth case, of particular note are the gold tray and gold incense burner.
In the fifth case, perhaps this room's most beautiful object, the Kasikci (spoonmaker's) diamond, is located. This diamond is 86 carats and surrounded by 49 brilliants. This is the diamond which the 1960s famous movie "Topkapi" was about.(Topkapi, starring Melina Mercury and Peter Ustinov.
Hall 4: The central object of this room is the Turkish and Indian masterpiece in its center, the throne of Mahmut I. A gift of the Persian King Nadir Shah, on a green and red background, its designs are of emeralds and pearls. On the right in a case, are pots and ivory mirrors. Across, in a large number of cases, are swords, rifles, prayer beads, spoons, all beautifully decorated. There is also a box in which the mantle of the Prophet Mohammed was once kept.
Holy Relics Section (The Privy Chamber)
The gateway from the Treasury to the left leads to the Pavillion of Holy Relics("Hırka-i Saadet Dairesi") which is on the NW corner of the Third Courtyard. In this section, the relics of Prophet Mohammed and other sacred objects are preserved. These objects were brought by Selim I after the conquest of Egypt in 1517 when the Sultan had the title of "Caliph". A Caliph is like a pope, he assumes the religious leadership of all over Islam World. The Holy Relics Section consists of 3 rooms.
The first room on the right from the entrance has a lovely decorated dome. The little room on the right is reserved for the "Imam", the religious person who is charged with reading Holy Koran all day long to give an idea to the foreigners about Koran. The other relics are boxes containing holy hairs of Prophet Mohammed, his footprint and old examples of Holy Koran. The golden case on the left is the cover of "Hacer-ul Esved" which is a holy piece of rock in Mecca. The room left to it is the one, the golden case containing holy mantle of Prophet and his swords.
Upon leaving the room, one returns back to the entry room, where mosque models and swords of the caliphs are displayed. There is also a piece from the wooden gate of Kaabah. On the left, comes the third room which another footprint of Prophet, relics belonging to other caliphs, cases containing Prophet's beard hairs and a zamzam bottle are displayed. The zamzam" is a sacred water which is believed to be good to people. It is brought from Mecca by the muslims who go there for pilgrimage ("Hac"). In this room, the sword of David, the rod of Moses, the turban of Joseph and the saucepan of Abraham are also displayed." The room is decorated with superb and lovely Iznik Tiles.
The Fourth Courtyard
From the Treasury Halls, there are stairs leading down to the Fourth Courtyard. This courtyard was exclusively reserved for the Sultan's own pleasure and nobody else was allowed without the permission of the Sultan. Upon the entrance, there's a little mosque on the right, this is just a little room to pray during the pray times.After a couple of stairs, comes the wonderful view of the Strait Bosphorus. The bridge is connecting Asia and Europe and the opposite side is the Asian Side. In a sunny day, the water is light blue and one can see the islands lying on the right hand side. They are called as "The Princes' Islands" which is another municipality of Istanbul. The Bosphorus is a great spot, one should take a boat trip along the Bosphorus. There are stairs from the entrance of the courtyard to a 101-year old restaurant "Konyali" which will contribute to one's enjoying of Istanbul.
A passageway leads to a corner which is a great spot for taking a lovely Bosphorus picture. As one turns left from the corner, there are lovely chestnut trees in the garden and the building on the left is called "the Mecidiye Kiosk". It is the last building added into Palace area before the Sultan left to move into "Dolmabahce Palace". The building dates back to 1840 and was erected by Sultan Abdul Mecid I. It's now being used as the management of "Restaurant Konyali".
As one takes the way to the right, after taking 4-5 steps, there is a lovely passageway through a refreshing garden. After completing the steps, there is little fountain and pool on the left side. This is another courtyard which the floor is marble and there is little canopy standing to observe the gorgeous view of the Golden Horn. On the left, stands the Suleiman's Mosque with all its magnificence. There are ferries and boats operating from Golden Horn to the Bosphorus and the bridges are always busy. On the right hand side, lies the New Part of Istanbul with all its big hotels and modern structures. The gold decorated little canopy is called "Aylık" which the Sultan observed the full moon.
The building on the right of the canopy is called "the Baghdad Pavillion" which was constructed to celebrate the conquest of Baghdad. The building is decorated with lovely Iznik tiles and inside the building is quite ornate. The fireplace and the hand paintings on the dome are worth seeing. There are beautiful examples of mother-of pearl inlaid into beautiful wardrobes. There is a brazier in the center of the room which served as a means of making Turkish coffee or to warm up the room in cooler days.
An interesting room in the same courtyard is the "Sunnet Odasi", "the Circumcision Chamber". This room is surrounded with splendid tiles and dates back to 16th C. According to the Islamic principles, all the male children should be circumsized after completion of 6-7 years of age. The child is not circumsized right after it's born because the logic is the child should grasp why the ceremony takes place. There are feasts given to people, music bands play and people eat and dance with joy... The boy gets nice gifts to forget about the pain of the operation and remembers the feast of his first step to maturity.
The last pavillion on the Fourth Courtyard is called "Revan Kosku", Revan Pavillion. It was built by Murat IV in 1636 to commemorate the capture of Revan in Iran. It is a small replica of the Baghdad Pavilion. The central brazier was a gift of the French King Louis XV, to Mahmut I, made by Duplesisa, a famous worker in bronze of the time. This room was also known as the Turban Room, as it was here that the sultan’s turbans were kept.